Відео

I’m not sure what you mean by extreme, but yes changing the size of either the inner or outer circle changes the angle of the cone. Looking at my cross section if I want the cone flatter, I’d make the inner circle smaller, or the other one larger.

Yes I used a round over bit on all of the corners, I think it was a 1/4” radius. For the front edge where it’s beveled I did it by sanding it by hand.

@@AdamBeckSpeed thanks

Material thickness is always my issue with this calculation. If I'm making it out of .063" aluminum that throws the calculation way off, especially considering the material is at an angle. This is why I like to cut it long and trim to fit. Thanks!

Sorry no plans I built to the dimensions of the fender chassis. I’m sure there are some online

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Copper shielding tape from Stewmac

Much appreciated! 😅

The dovetail jig is form Peachtree woodworking, it works great.

They just pull out. They are a press fit. There is nothing holding them in. They may be stuck in the paint though. Scoring around them with a razor will prevent them from taking a big paint chip.

same way. Just use a satin clearcoat and stop there. Dont wet sand or buff.

@@AdamBeckSpeed cool! Able to achieve I totally smooth satin finish using a spray can, if there's no sanding or buffing involved?

Damn what if you already sanded and buffed it lol

hey if it's all black it all matches!

Poly makes a pretty good primer for a lot of top coats. It’s held up well, it was super thin so it got some cool wear where your arm rests.

Thanks for the tips, I'm about to refinish my P bass so I might end up using the stew mac rattle can nitro's then!@@AdamBeckSpeed

I’m not familiar with that head but I’m sure it’s possible. You just need to get creative

Ok i solved the enclosure wood piece just one las part which I’m kind lost got any idea tip trick on how to make the holes true the wood so they match the metal enclosure because once I slide the head there’s no way to see the holes

Well that stinks. I think I bought 49 in total. Was planning on getting more though.

Yeah I was trying to make it spray round but the gun was not cooperating so I just made the fan as small as possible so I had the most control. Thats why you can see me doing so many test sprays on the paper.

@@AdamBeckSpeed brilliant thank you for that. I'm about to attempt my first burst and I need all the help I can get 😂

Finally! Some one who agrees the red is lame. Thanks!

Glad it worked for you!

Ditto !!!

Are the sides straight or are they concave? Thats the profile from top to bottom. If they’re straight, you would do just like I showed. If concave it becomes a compound curve and you can’t really use this method. How big would it need to be?

@@AdamBeckSpeed thank you for replying and great questions. I look at it as a closed cylinder type shape. Dimms: 10”ht 6”dia at bottom 3”dia at the top - The concave curve starts immediately from the bott then curves slightly in & up for a climb of 3”+- - At that transition point the dia is ~3-3.25” as it smooths out. -Then the remaining 7” is just a 3”dia cylinder to the top. - Goal is to have a nice, concave curve with smooth transitioning from that 1st 3” into that 7” of straight line upward.. - I am making a pottery vase out clay. - Initially I throw this shaped pot on the wheel. This shape is perfect for this hand technique. But too much for production run of 50 An easier way is to make a template from a pressed slab of clay & trace it,cut it out, fold over to get shape needed. But since this shape is not as simple as a cone I have a puzzle. So I cut open the thrown one, unfolded it flat then traced it onto the slab. - But it doesn’t translate well when folding it over to begin shaping. Hard to explain, . I don’t know how to represent that junction point from curve to linear onto paper. I know I can borrow some of the steps in you’re vid but stumble on this shape. Thinking as I write: should I break this into 2 separate shapes? - A 7”l x 3”dia cylinder - A cone’ish shape at” 6”dia to 3”dia cone then attaché the two? - This is doable even with high qty but Still requires a lot of ‘blending to make that curve which costs me time. 0pay now/pay later 😀 Well any insight is appreciated Adam Sorry for long txt here

Apologies Aamber I know almost nothing about clay pottery. It. Seems like you could use this pattern as part of the process. The tough part is gonna be the curve. Could you make a straight buck to shape the clay over and then add the curved part on the wheel?

@@AdamBeckSpeed No worries and I agree with you. I think I will break down the shape into 3 smaller, manageable parts, then attach together. Thanks again

Sounds great! There were. Lot of things changed, (speaker, materials and dimensions) hard to say what had the most affect.

@@AdamBeckSpeed nice :)

Yeah it’s a great trick, especially for projects with a bunch of different screws.

​@@AdamBeckSpeedmechanic trick 😉

Yes. You’re talking after paint and clear you can go as fine as you like. It may just take a little more elbow grease. BEFORE paint though, don’t go finer than 400.

I dont remember that one. Honestly, I never use it because things like material thickness and the width of the pen / marker you use can throw it off. I like to cut it long and trim to fit.

@@AdamBeckSpeed thanks for answering! This video was super helpful for what I was trying to do!

It was an experiment, and it made wet sanding much easier and more consistent. I wouldn't do it this way again, but caused no issues.

It works exactly the same, it's just easier to do quick math with metric. dimensions would be like: 1 3/16" at the top, 5 1/8" at the bottom and 3.5" tall.